View this video of our wiper motor restoration process showing dis-assembly, cleaned parts, re-assembly and final testing.
You can find the original article here.
Many knowledgeable car people may not even be familiar with the term NOS, which stands for New Old Stock. This term is given to parts that are auto parts from the original (automobile/motorcycle/tractor/ etc) manufacturer for repair or reconditioning on their originally sold product. Sounds confusing, but really is not.
You see AC/Delco, AC, Rochester, Delco-moraine, and several other manufacturers were all part of the original GM network (owned by GM), and all of these companies supplied back to the parent company(s) (Chevrolet, Olds, Pontiac, Olds, GMC) for parts required to make the new cars being delivered to dealers. These companies also were responsible for supplying parts (at a profit) to the companies dealerships to repair the new cars, should they be involved in an accident, warranty, or in need of a repair by aftermarket shops. The old rule of thumb for manufacturers were to be able to stock parts for vehicles for between 10-15 years past their initial production (purists might say it was more, but work with me in this case), so AC/Delco needed to be able to supply a 1970 GTO ignition switch to a dealership that required one as recently as 1985. If the dealer bought one of these ignition switches (in 1970), but never used it, and then tried to return the part to GM in 1986, GM was under no obligation to take the return from the dealer, as the time had elapsed for GM’s “responsibility” to produce parts for the continued operation of the new 1970 GTO.. Thus a “new old stock” part is at a dealer with no use for it. These parts were sold by the dealer to private citizens to help lower their inventory costs, and they would rather get something from the part rather than throwing the obsolete product out. (A new industry is born with the “reseller” of NOS parts, see e-bay motors for listings from people who buy out entire dealerships)
Nothing fits like an original part, and although more expensive, NOS parts are superior to reproduction parts in many cases. If buying an NOS part, you need to see if it is in the original wrapper, as many of these parts are now reproduced, and sold as NOS on e-bay with the disclaimer NOS-NEW, this means that somebody has duplicated the old part, some times with inferior methods or materials, and are claiming the part to be NOS. Many of these parts are of decent quality, but if they are reproduced by 40 year old dies or molds, the molds may not be as “crisp” as they were when manufactured new, as these dies or molds age with use, like everything else, and you may wind up with a body panel that does not have a crisp line to it, or an emblem that does not have well-defined edges. another example would be an emblem that is now applied to a car with an adhesive backing, VS the original pin type of attachment.
If a person is doing a nice cruiser for their own personal enjoyment, it might be an intelligent decision to buy some reproduction pieces to keep the cost low, but if you are truly trying to return your car to it’s as delivered state, and/or have a rare car, it is prudent to depend on the NOS parts to restore these cars. The low cost (reproduction) emblem, might be the first thing to fail on that gorgeous frame off restoration, and it can be very frustrating chasing these little details on a car you just payed an enormous amount of money to restore.
OEM Manufacturer (FORD, GM, CHRYSLER etc)- Original car/part manufacturer
NOS -New Old Stock . Part made by OEM manufacturer, licensee, or subsidiary.
NOS-NEW- A new part made to replace discontinued parts, in many cases under license from the original manufacturer. Many times these are of higher quality than the “repopped” parts. They can be exceptional (See Goodmark body panels, Gardner Exhaust etc), but many false starts from early imported products have tainted the reputation of many products.
Reproduction (Repop)- Any part not made by or licensed by the original manufacturer. Various manufacturers of widely varying degrees of skill and quality. These can be accurate (good-no problems) to (junk) ill fitting inferior panels that take longer to correct, than trying to find an NOS panel. You may be buying a fender for your mustang from a manufacturer that is paid by the piece to produce product. (No quality assurance). Keep in mind that these products in many cases are not packaged correctly to assure a damage free ride as well.
I do not pretend to know all the answers, but hopefully I have waded through some questions, as I get this question regularly when I list parts for sale. I am not necessarily against reproduction products, but I want people to realize that sometimes you may have “unfulfilled” expectations, on those products, as compared to the original NOS product. Hope it helps……..Brian
Be sure to check out D&M’s inventory of NOS!
D&M Recently added photos of Tom Christenberry’s 1962 fuel injected Corvette to our customer gallery!
D&M was recently mentioned in an article in Street Rodder Magazine!
View our video of one of our recent tachometer conversions to electric with commentary by the technician.
D&M had the opportunity to see this very rare venetian red 1956 Corvette at the most recent NCRS meet. Most people within NCRS know Mike as the Southeast judge chairman.
On February of 2014, D&M Restoration had the opportunity to restore the instruments on his 1956 Corvette along with the wiper motor!
Thank you Toni and Mike for the pictures!
D&M Recently had a customer drop by and show off the 1962 Corvette that had restored which included the gauges D&M restored!
D&M has several items we have restored. You may have seen these on display at recent car shows.. Check out the new version of our online store to see what we have to offer in the way of instrument clusters, clocks, radios, tachometers, etc. We will be posting more later. Do you have an “identical item” you would be interested in trading that needs work? Consider saving some time by asking us about trade-in options!
We can also get you great deals on Carpet, Tires, Trim Parts and Other items and check out our eBay listings as well.
Since the early 70’s D & M Restoration has rebuilt many speed warning clusters. We are frequently asked questions from customers who try to install a ’67 speed warning speedometer and encounter several problems. We hope this article will clear some of this up.
In 1967, the Corvette offered an optional speed-warning speedometer. The idea was that the driver would set the small, pale yellow needle on the speedometer to the speed that he didn’t want to exceed. When the main speedometer needle reached the place where the small needle was set, a little hairspring on the large needle would make contact with a peg on the small needle, completing a path to ground. That in turn would set off an external speed-warning buzzer. In order for this to happen, the metal faceplate had to be insulated from making contact with the speedometer main frame and the front of the cluster. This was accomplished by the installation of two fiber washers and two plastic screws, which mounted the faceplate to the speedometer main frame. A piece of electrical tape was also placed on the outer edge of the odometer frame so that any short would be prevented should the frame and face touch.
The face plate also had a flat brass strap that went to the left side of the speedometer frame (looking from the back). It made a 90 degree contact on the speedo/tach mount plate. Note: This 90 degree bend was on the strap and had to be kept from contacting the frame by using electrical tape. When the speedometer was mounted to the backplate, it had to make contact with the plate in order to achieve a good ground. But this was not possible due to the rubber pad and two rubber grommets on the mounting screws. So a brass tab with teeth on it was attached to one of the mounting screws. It then made contact with the frame when the brass teeth on the tab went over the grommet and made contact with the mounting plate.
The needle used on this speedometer was totally different from the stock needles. Because of this, the same style needle was used on the tachometer, minus the hairspring. These needles were almost ¼ inch taller than the stock needles.
In l967, the cluster remained unchanged except for the tachometer and speedometer lenses which were changed to plastic ones (like 1963). The small gauge lenses (4) were glass. They were all still concave but because of the longer needle shaft length on the speedo and tach, if not modified, the needles would make contact with the lenses. In order to prevent this when installing the lenses into the cluster, the small glass lenses were installed normally with the rubber pads first, then the lenses. But on the speedo/tachs, the lens was installed first, then the rubber pads were installed on the backside of the two plastic lenses. Then the lens holding plate was installed. This gave just enough clearance for the needles.
The following is a tip for those of you who are doing their own restorations on ‘64/67 Corvette dash clusters:
When installing glass lenses back into your cluster after you restore it, make sure you have clearance on all sides of glass lenses. Make sure the lenses are not touching the side(s) of the cluster anywhere. Then you can install your plate that holds all 6 lenses in place. If you do not do this, it’s very likely that when a temperature change occurs (i.e., going from your garage to outside or the cooling off in the evening), the glass lenses will crack across the lenses if they are touching the cluster. This would make for a bad situation causing you to have to take the whole cluster out.